Naxi women and the dress

The classic Naxi woman's outfit includes a blue or black jacket, wide trousers, an apron, and a sheepskin cape worn over the back. The cape is decorated with seven embroidered circles representing stars, plus larger circles for the sun and moon. The whole design is often read as 'the stars and moon on my back, the labour of the day ahead'.

Older women in the villages still wear the cape daily. Younger women wear it for festivals, performances, and tourism work. In the old towns, you will see it in souvenir photos and dance shows, which can make it feel like a costume; it is not.

Naxi society is traditionally patrilineal, with inheritance passing through sons. Women have historically done much of the agricultural and commercial work, and in Lijiang they dominate small retail and hospitality. That visible role is often mistaken for matriliny.

The Mosuo, who live around Lugu Lake, are matrilineal and have a different family system, sometimes described as walking marriage. They are a distinct group, not a subset of the Naxi, though they live in the same region. The Lugu Lake guide explains more.

Ask before photographing anyone, especially older women in traditional dress. A polite request in Mandarin or a gesture usually works; a camera in someone's face does not. If you buy something from a stall, a short conversation is welcome.

Do not call the dress a costume or assume it is worn for tourists. It is clothing with meaning. If you are invited to a festival or a village meal, follow your host's lead on dress and photographs.

The cape is heavy and warm, which explains its survival in a high, windy basin. The embroidery takes time, and good pieces are repaired rather than replaced. If you buy textiles, ask who made them and whether the work is hand-stitched.

• Ask before taking portraits.
• The seven circles are stars, not decoration.
• Mosuo and Naxi are different peoples.
• Buy from the stall before asking for a photo.