Lijiang for Couples: Where It Works and Where It Doesn't

The old town at 07:00, before the shops open, is genuinely beautiful: wet stone, wooden shutters, smoke from breakfast stalls. By 11:00 it is a different place. If you want the version in the photographs, set an alarm and walk early, then retreat for breakfast.

Shuhe is quieter and more residential, with canals and courtyards that feel less staged. Baisha is quieter still, but limited for evening meals. Many couples stay in Shuhe and visit Dayan for one evening rather than sleeping in the middle of it.

Courtyard hotels are the reason to stay in an old town. Look for a room with real heating, a private bathroom, and a courtyard that is not also the reception, bar, and luggage store. In winter, check whether the room has underfloor heating or a heat pump; a thin quilt and an electric blanket is not romantic.

The most expensive rooms are not always the best. A smaller guesthouse with six rooms and an owner who cooks breakfast can beat a 40-room 'boutique' property. Ask for a quiet courtyard-facing room away from the lane.

Day one: arrive, walk the old town in the late afternoon, eat a slow dinner, sleep early. Day two: the mountain or Baisha in the morning, a long lunch, then a tea tasting or a courtyard afternoon. Day three: Lashi or Shuhe at a slow pace, then a final dinner.

Do not put Jade Dragon and the old town on the same day. The mountain day starts early, involves queues and altitude, and leaves you flat by late afternoon. Give it its own day and keep the evening simple.

The costume-photo industry is the main irritant. Shops rent embroidered outfits and pose couples on bridges, often blocking the lanes and requiring a queue. If you want photos, book a private session in Baisha or Shuhe at dawn rather than joining the afternoon crush in Dayan.

Also skip the 'romantic dinner' packages that promise a private courtyard and deliver a fixed menu with a musician. Ask what is actually included, and whether the courtyard is shared with other diners.