Old town mornings

Start at the water wheels at the north entrance and walk south along the main channel. Turn off into the lanes around Sifang Street, then climb toward Lion Hill for the roof view. The side lanes are quieter and more residential than the main axis.

Breakfast options appear around 7:30: rice noodle shops, baba stalls, and bakeries. Sit where the locals sit. The light is soft until about 9am, which is also the best time for photographs.

A good two-hour loop runs from the north water wheels to Sifang Street, up to Lion Hill, then down through the lanes behind the main square. Keep the hill for the middle of the walk, when the light reaches the roofs, and leave the shopping streets for later.

The old town is often described as commercialised, and by midday it is. In the morning you see the other layer: residents washing, shops opening, deliveries, and the maintenance that keeps the place running. The water channels are most audible before the crowds.

Some lanes are slippery after rain or overnight damp. Wear shoes with grip. The stone is uneven, and mobility scooters or wheelchairs will struggle on the steps and bridges.

This is a residential area. Keep your voice down in the lanes, do not photograph into open doorways, and do not block a shop entrance. If you want a portrait, ask. The old town's residents are used to tourists but not to being treated as scenery. A quiet hello in Mandarin goes a long way. The earlier you start, the more of it you will see.

Shops open at different hours; some close in the afternoon. The old town sights guide covers the main landmarks. For the evening, see Lijiang nights.

• Start before 8am.
• Stay off private doorsteps.
• Ask before portraits.
• Carry a warm layer.