Dali is the other great Yunnan stop: an old town with walls and gates, a large lake, the Three Pagodas, and the Cangshan mountains behind. It is about two hours south of Lijiang by train or road, and many travellers combine the two. Dali is lower, warmer, and more spread out.
In short
Go for two nights, or a long day if you are short on time. The old town, Erhai Lake, and the Three Pagodas are the core. Dali is a good place to slow down after Lijiang's lanes.
Before you book
Prices and schedules change
Reserve the fixed-time items first, then build the rest around the weather. If you are deciding between two versions of the trip, send both.
Why go
Dali is a different Yunnan: Bai culture, a wide lake, and a gentler climate. The old town is larger and flatter than Lijiang's, with more space and a bohemian edge. The Three Pagodas and Chongsheng Temple are the main monuments; Erhai Lake and the villages around it are the reason to stay longer.
It is also a convenient stop between Lijiang and Kunming. The train is fast and comfortable, making Dali an easy two-night addition.
What to see
Walk the old town in the morning, visit the Three Pagodas, and take a boat or drive around part of Erhai Lake. The lake's east shore has quieter villages and good cycling. Cangshan has cable cars and trails, but the weather changes quickly.
The old town is touristy in the centre but quiets down in the lanes and early mornings. Dali's Bai food, especially the sour fish and cheese, is worth seeking out.
- Take the train from Lijiang; it is faster than the road.
- Stay in the old town or a lake village, not the new town.
- Rent a bike for the lake if the weather is clear.
- Allow two nights to avoid a rushed day trip.
Getting there
Trains from Lijiang take about 1.5 to 2 hours to Dali station, which is south of the old town; allow another 30 to 40 minutes by taxi or bus. Buses also run from Lijiang's bus station, taking about two hours.
Dali can be done as a day trip, but the travel eats the day. Two nights is a better rhythm, and it breaks up the journey back to Kunming. See the arrival briefing for train booking.
Verdict
Worth two nights; Dali is a different Yunnan, not a duplicate of Lijiang.
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