From June to October, Lijiang's markets fill with wild mushrooms brought down from the surrounding forests. The range is enormous: porcini, chanterelles, matsutake, termite mushrooms, jelly fungi, and dozens of local species. For a cook, it is one of the great seasonal markets in China. For a visitor, it is also a place to be careful.
In short
Visit the market in the morning, buy only what you can identify and cook thoroughly, and let a restaurant do the cooking if you are unsure. Never eat a wild mushroom raw.
The season
The mushroom season begins with the first summer rains, usually in June, and runs through October. The peak is July and August, when the forests are wet and warm. Matsutake appears later in summer and commands the highest prices; porcini and chanterelles are more affordable.
The market is best before 09:00, when the overnight deliveries arrive and the restaurants are buying. Later in the day the choice thins and prices soften. Bring cash and a bag; vendors expect you to handle the produce.
What to look for
Common species include porcini (boletes), chanterelles, termite mushrooms, jelly fungi, and various local agarics. Matsutake is recognizable by its thick stem and distinctive aroma. Vendors will usually tell you the name and the cooking method, but language can be a barrier.
Buy mushrooms that are firm, dry, and free of worms. Avoid anything slimy or already broken. If you cannot identify a species with confidence, do not buy it to cook yourself. The mushroom hotpot guide covers the restaurant route.
Cooking and safety
All wild mushrooms should be cooked thoroughly. Sauté them in oil or simmer them in broth for at least ten to fifteen minutes; do not eat them raw or lightly warmed. Some species are toxic when undercooked, and Yunnan records poisoning cases every year.
If you are cooking in a guesthouse, keep species separate and do not mix a large batch of unknowns. If you are unsure, give the mushrooms to a restaurant and let them cook. The pleasure of the market is the sight and smell as much as the eating.
Verdict
A superb seasonal market: go early, buy what you know, and cook it longer than you think.
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