Lijiang rice noodles are a close cousin of the Yunnan rice noodle family, but with their own toppings and a slower, porkier broth. You will see them everywhere in the morning: bowls of white noodles, a dark broth, minced pork, peanuts, pickled vegetables, scallion, and a spoonful of chili oil. They are cheap, fast, and exactly what you want before a cold start.
In short
Eat them for breakfast at a local shop, add chili and vinegar to taste, and do not expect a delicate broth. The best bowls are in the new town and market districts.
The bowl
The noodles are made from rice, round and slightly chewy, and blanched in a mesh basket before being added to a bowl of hot broth. The standard toppings are minced pork, crushed peanuts, pickled vegetables, scallion, coriander, and chili oil. Some shops add a piece of braised pork or an egg.
The broth is usually pork-based, sometimes with chicken or bones, and is served hot but not boiling. It is lighter than it looks. The flavour comes from the toppings and the condiments on the table, which usually include black vinegar, chili paste, and soy.
How to order
Point at the picture or say 'mifan' (rice noodles). Most shops have one basic bowl and a few add-ons. You can ask for no chili, extra peanuts, or an egg. If you do not eat pork, ask for a vegetable version; it may still use pork broth, so be specific.
The bowl is cheap, and the shop will expect you to eat and go. Breakfast is the main meal, from about 07:00 to 10:00. Some places close by early afternoon. Carry cash or have a mobile payment set up; see the payments briefing.
Where to eat
The best-value bowls are in the new town, around Xiangshan market, and in village shops in Baisha and Shuhe. Old-town restaurants charge more and are less consistent. Look for a shop with a queue of local workers and a pot of broth on the boil.
Pair the noodles with a Naxi baba or a boiled egg. For other breakfast options, see Naxi baba. For the market district, see Xiangshan.
Verdict
The everyday Lijiang breakfast: cheap, warming, and best eaten where the workers eat.
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